The drive to Rocky Harbour provided a sample of the roads we
had heard about in Newfoundland. Our next destination was about 350
km each way to St. Anthony, at the tip of the Northern Peninsula. We decided to
leave the RV in Rocky Harbour so Ralph could fully enjoy the drive along the western
coastline.
Rough water and the harsh coastline has challenged mariners
for centuries. In 1919 the S.S. Ethie ran aground. All 92 passengers and crew
were saved including a baby sent ashore in a mailbag. Time has eroded the hull
leaving only rusted bits and pieces.
Hardy trees and shrubs cling to the shoreline.
We followed the “Viking Trail” to St. Anthony and checked
into a hotel.
We promptly set out to find icebergs. “That was Easy”.
Every time the road meandered near the coastline there were icebergs.
Wow!
In 1969 Ralph and I met at the Columbia Icefields near
Jasper, Alberta. The turquoise color in the Athabasca Glacier has always
stayed with us.
At that time Icefields tours were conducted in
snowmobiles like this one in a Newfoundland woodlot.
When we came back from Europe in July 2010 we flew over
Greenland. From 35,000 feet icebergs floating in a brilliant blue ocean
mesmerized us. 10,000 year old Greenland glaciers calve fresh water icebergs.
They float down Iceberg Alley along the eastern coast of Newfoundland.
Only about 1/8th of an iceberg is above water. Can you imagine how much of this behemoth is below water?
Icebergs may look serene but they can roll and split without
warning. When they approach oil drilling operations they are lassoed and towed
safely out of range.
In St. Anthony we booked an Iceberg Tour. Overnight a
violent storm came in and knocked the end of the pier off its pilings.
A cavalcade of tourist vehicles headed for another pier and we were
off for an adventure to see our first iceberg up close.
The sun, wind, rain and ocean carve the icebergs into many
fanciful shapes.
The boat crew fished out a growler from a nearby iceberg.
As we left St. Anthony Bight towards the open ocean we passed Fox Point Lighthouse.
A fishing boat attracted lots of airborne diners.
The storm from the previous night was still evident as we entered the North Atlantic Ocean. The crew expertly handled the boat in 20 to 30 foot waves.
We were early for the whale season but the alert crew spotted three gray whales in the heaving water.
Ralph and I had an incredible view from the front of the boat as it confronted the waves. We hung onto the boat, each other and the camera.
What a ride! We were so excited by the icebergs, waves and whales we didn't notice how cold we were until we entered calm water.
At Jungle Jim's the name started to warm us up. For lunch we asked for the warmest table and hot chocolate.
Icebergs and fishing boats are a lasting image of Newfoundland.
This was breathtaking. I was absolutely riveted. What a unique experience!
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