#187 June 2018 Haida Gwaii Part 2 The People and the Islands

Our visit to Haida Gwaii was off to a spectacular start with the totem pole raising. That was a highlight but there is so much more to see and experience.

In 1787 the archipelago was named the Queen Charlotte Islands after the ship of a fur trader. In 2010 the Haida Nation returned that name to the Crown. The name was written on a piece of paper, placed in a traditional bentwood box and handed to the BC Premier. Acceptance of the box was part of a provincial bill enshrining a commitment to Reconciliation Protocol.

The ancient name Haida Gwaii translates into “Islands of the People”. The significance of the name is summed up as follows “Haida Gwaii is not only where we are, this is who we are”.

The Haida Heritage Centre is designed to resemble the traditional oceanside village that once stood in its place. Six totem poles in front of longhouses represent the villages that once stood in the area.

Totem poles usually face away from the longhouse to protect the inhabitants.

They also face the water when possible.

When Bill Reid discovered his Haida heritage he wholeheartedly embraced the culture and became one of its best known carvers. In order to preserve his totem pole it was moved to the Haida Centre.

Haida Canoes display the incredible talent of the carvers and artists.

There are totem poles and Haida art throughout the Islands as the people uphold their culture and heritage.

Peter and Christine, our Bed and Breakfast hosts, gave us a tour of the North Coast and taught us how to look for agates on the beach. 

This is one of Christine’s prize agates.

Black tail deer are plentiful and the sandhill cranes can be very noisy.

The Golden Spruce Trail leads to the remains of a unique spruce tree that was tragically cut down, apparently by a disgruntled logger.

The trail through the rain forest is beautiful and has signs informing visitors about the connection between nature and the Haida people.

There are some ancient trees that defy description.

Gray Bay on Moresby Island is isolated and peaceful. A great spot for a picnic.

Returning on the ferry to Prince Rupert we realized that large vehicles back onto the ferry and tuck in tight together. We were in the same “view” spot but lost the view of the car deck.

 Outside the view was lovely.

Visiting Haida Gwaii was a unique experience. We gained insight into the Haida culture and people and the beautiful islands they call home.